You can either make a compost heap or you can use a compost bin. Bins are suitable for smaller gardens and are tidy and compact. Heaps are suitable for large gardens and can treat large volumes of waste. Bins are available from your local garden centre or DIY store or your local authority.
Choose a well drained, sheltered spot in the garden that gets some sunshine and is readily accessible from the house. Loosen the soil first before putting the compost heap / bin in position. This helps to drain any water released during composting as well as allowing soil microbes and worms to migrate into the compost.
Begin by placing some dry twigs or straw or other bulky garden material at the base of the heap / bin. For best results place the GREENS and BROWNS in alternate layers about 3 to 6 inches thick.Greens provide nitrogen,Browns provide carbon. Successful composting occurs when both are present in equal quantities. Greens tend to be fresh, soft, moist material. Browns are dry and generally hard.
Material treated with insecticides or pesticides
Kill biological population in compost
Small amounts of cooked food, fish and meat scraps and dairy products can be added if buried in the middle of a compost unit.
It's a good idea to keep a small bin close at hand in the kitchen into which you can add any organic waste material. When it is full, simply add the contents to the compost heap / bin.
To Get Best Results
The material put in the compost heap / bin serves as food for the microbes and worms. The microbes will work at their best when the material is kept warm, moist and aerated.
Temperature: During composting the temperature will rise and at the higher temperatures the more difficult wastes (woody material) are broken down by microbes tolerant of the high temperatures. Also the higher temperatures help to eliminate disease causing organisms. Once the food supply runs out, the temperature drops and the result is a stable compost, ready for use.
The microbes begin the decomposition process and they are then joined by worms, beetles, millipedes, etc.
Moisture:
Do not let the compost dry out. Add water when necessary during very dry, hot weather. An equal mix of wet and dry material will help to balance the moisture requirements. A wrung out sponge is the best physical description for estimation of correct moisture.
Aeration: Include some bulky material e.g. wood chippings, twigs, straw, sawdust, shredded / scrunched up paper. Also prodding with a garden fork once a week or turning compost on a regular basis will allow air into the compost.
How Long Does Composting Take?
Different materials will decompose at different rates but they will break down eventually. If the material is shredded in advance of addition to the compost heap / bin, it will help to make the process more efficient. If there is a good mix of greens and browns which have been shredded and if moisture and air are right, compost could be available in about 6-7 months.
How Can I Speed It Up?
To speed things up, use of biological activators will greatly accelerate the composting process especially during the winter months. One such product is called Accelecomp.
This product contains natural microbes that readily adapt to the compost environment. The microbes present also work well at the high temperatures generated during composting. Add the product at the beginning and also during the composting process and see instant improvement. The resulting compost will be a rich dark brown colour, have a crumbly texture and a pleasant earthy smell.
Do I Blend Compost With Other Ingredients?
Stable compost can be blended with peat moss, shredded bark, sand or loamy topsoil. Mixing ratios vary but 10% compost is considered to be a minimum, 30% optimum and 50% maximum when planting shrubs and trees.
Common Problems
Flies:
Food trimmings and food scraps not covered. Bury food at centre. May need to bury vegetable and fruit peelings if they are attracting flies. Alternatively place a layer of shredded newspaper or soil on top of compost to divert flies.
Rodents / dogs:
Addition of meat or fish scraps or bones or other cooked food scraps which are not properly covered. Try not to add the offending food or ensure they are well buried at the centre.
Compost does not resemble commercial composts:
This is due mainly to the coarseness of the material put in the compost heap / bin. If a lot of coarse material is included, the compost will be coarse. Shedding of some of the material prior to adding it can help to overcome this. Can also sieve the compost to make it more uniform and improve its quality. Any twiggy bits or coarse material left on the sieve can be returned to the heap / bin.
Compost not heating up:
Not enough moisture or not enough nitrogen. Turn the material and add moisture. Add nitrogen rich material such as grass, leaves or manure and include an activator such as Accelecomp.
Compost smelling bad:
Not enough air or too wet. Turn pile or prod it well with a garden fork and add nitrogen rich grass / leaves / manure and include use of an activator such as Accelecomp.
Also occurs if too many greens present and not enough browns. If haven't added any browns in a while, put some in.
Compost is soggy / slimy:
Too much wet material such as grass clippings. Turn pile or prod it well with garden fork and mix in dry materials and add an activator such as Accelecomp.
Compost is dry:
Not enough moisture, too much woody material. Turn it, add moisture, add fresh non-woody material and perhaps add an activator such as Accelecomp.
Compost when spread in garden is producing weeds:
Dig compost into soil to help reduce weed growth. Don't add weeds with seeds to the compost heap / bin. Also temperature may not be getting high enough to kill off more heat sensitive weed seeds. Increase heat by turning the material and adding moisture if dry. Add nitrogen rich material such as grass, leaves or manure and include an activator such as Accelecomp.
For further information on Accelecomp, please contact:
